The Sibillinis: Now as Then

The Sibillini Mountains' Gola dell Infernaccio" (Throat of Hell)
The Sibillini Mountains' Gola dell Infernaccio" (Throat of Hell)

Today a friend talked of a book entitled "The Cities of Romagna and the Marches" written by an English traveller, Edward Hutton, and published in 1925. The style is rather old-fashioned but what he describes isn't at all dated. Here's part of his commentary on his journey from Ascoli Piceno to Amandola.


We were to start at noon ; but when at noon I arrived at the office with my wallet there was no sign of departure, and it was only when a good hour had passed, and my fellow-travellers one by one had straggled in from caffe and

market that the vettura was drawn out from its noisome shelter loaded with all sorts of bundles and luggage, the flea-bitten, wiry horses harnessed, their shoes blackened as they waited to start, and we were off at last more than an

hour late.


Of that journey, which brought me long after nightfall to the wonderful inn of Amandola, I cannot speak with all the eloquence it deserves. We left Ascoli by the Roman gate and followed the Tronto up stream so far as Taverna Picci-

nini. There we turned to the north, and presently began to climb into the tremendous pass, the highest part of which is, I suppose, some two thousand feet above the sea. This bald statement of feet, however, gives no idea of the amazing splendour and beauty of that wonderful road


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